Frequently asked questions about tile installation

Both are kiln-fired clay products, but porcelain is fired at higher temperatures and made from denser clay, which makes it harder and less porous than ceramic. Porcelain typically has a water absorption rate below 0.5%, making it a better choice for wet areas, outdoor installations, and high-traffic floors. Ceramic is generally easier to cut and install, which can reduce labor time on straightforward projects. For most bathroom floors, shower surrounds, and outdoor patios, porcelain is the more practical choice. Ceramic works well for walls, backsplashes, and dry interior areas where the lower density is not a concern.

Most natural stone does require sealing, though the type of stone and the application determines how often and what kind of sealer to use. Marble, travertine, and limestone are porous and absorb liquids readily, which makes sealing important in kitchens and bathrooms where spills and moisture are common. Slate is denser and less absorbent but still benefits from a penetrating sealer. Granite is the most resistant of the common natural stones. We seal stone tile as part of the installation process and can advise on a maintenance schedule specific to the material and location.

Not reliably. Indoor tile is not rated for freeze-thaw cycles or prolonged UV exposure. Sacramento's climate includes hot dry summers and occasional winter frost, and a tile that is not rated for exterior use can crack or delaminate when temperatures drop. Outdoor tile needs a PEI (Porcelain Enamel Institute) rating appropriate for foot traffic and, if there is any chance of freezing temperatures, a frost-resistance rating. We source tile specifically rated for exterior applications and can walk through material options with you during the estimate visit.

Substrate preparation is where most tile failures begin. Tile is rigid and does not flex. If the surface beneath it moves, shifts, or has low spots, the tile will crack, the grout will fracture, or individual tiles will loosen over time. A proper substrate for floor tile needs to be flat to within 1/8 inch over 10 feet for standard tile and tighter tolerances for large-format tile. For wet areas like showers, the substrate also needs to be waterproofed before tile is applied. We assess the substrate on every job and address any issues before setting tile.

A standard bathroom floor retile on an existing solid substrate typically takes one to two days of installation time, plus a day for grout to cure before the space can be used normally. A full shower surround with wall tile adds time depending on the square footage, the tile format, and whether any waterproofing or substrate work is needed. A complete bathroom remodel involving floor, walls, and a shower enclosure generally runs three to five working days for the tile portion alone. We provide a timeline with the estimate so you can plan accordingly.

In most cases, yes. Tiling over existing tile adds height to the floor, which can create transitions with adjacent rooms, conflict with door clearances, and add weight to the substrate. More importantly, tiling over old tile means you cannot inspect or repair the substrate underneath. If the existing tile has hollow spots, loose sections, or moisture damage beneath it, those problems will carry through to the new installation. We assess whether overlay is structurally viable on a case-by-case basis, but we typically recommend removal to ensure the substrate is sound before starting.

Grout selection depends on the joint width and the application. Unsanded grout is used for joints under 1/8 inch and is common on wall tile and mosaic applications. Sanded grout is used for wider joints on floor tile. Epoxy grout is a third option that is highly stain-resistant and does not require sealing, but it is more difficult to work with and typically reserved for commercial kitchens or areas with heavy staining potential. For most residential work, a quality sanded or unsanded grout sealed after installation performs well. Color choice also matters practically, not just aesthetically. Light grout in a high-traffic area will show wear and staining faster than a mid-tone option.

Thinset mortar typically needs 24 hours to achieve initial cure before light foot traffic is safe, though full cure takes longer. Grout generally needs 24 to 72 hours before the surface should get wet, depending on the product and ambient temperature. For a shower, we recommend waiting a full 72 hours after grouting before using it with water. Sealer, if applied, adds additional cure time. We provide specific timing guidance at the end of each job based on the products used and the current weather conditions.